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Black Hair Basics
The typical hair and hair follicles of those
of African descent are tightly curled, thus producing hair that spirals.
Black hair also typically has a larger diameter than Caucasian hair and
retains less water, thus its relative “kinkiness.” The many styling methods
utilized on Black hair cause concern with hair loss. Black hair is very
strong, fortunately so because Black hair styles cause a great deal of
stress on the hair and scalp.
For example, using a hair pick to pick
the hair up to a bushy style is a very damaging process due to the constant
pulling causing stress on the hair shaft as well as the follicle. In fact,
combing Black hair in general can create high stress on Black hair and
cause breakage, which perpetuates dryness. Conrowing and braiding
are methods of hairstyling that pull the hair tight, and this can cause
a great deal of stress on the hair and scalp resulting in hair loss. Braiding
that results in the hair being pulled very tight can cause traumatic alopecia,
a hair loss that is caused by trauma to the hair and scalp. Traumatic alopecia
is usually reversible with proper hair care.
Hot combs and relaxers used to straighten
hair can cause a great deal of heat and chemical damage to hair and scalp,
which can also cause traumatic alopecia, and over time can cause permanent
hair loss. This becomes especially true when the heat or chemically processed
hair is pulled tight by rollers or a hot curling iron.
Hot oil conditioners are excellent for
Black hair, as hot oil treatments contain proteins and polymers vital to
repairing the hair cuticles. Hot oil treatments involve heating the oil
and putting it into the hair and scalp, then covering the hair with a plastic
cap to allow the oil to soak in. Follow the recommendations on the treatment
you are using for the amount of time you should leave the treatment on
the hair. This process can heal breakages and shinier stronger hair will
be the result.
Consider that hair relaxers commonly used
on Black hair contain lye or similar chemicals that break down the hair
shaft. Left on beyond the recommended time, these chemicals would eat right
through the hair and cause it to fall out in clumps. This is why these
same products are used in products like Drano® to clean clogged drains
which often are clogged by hair. No-lye relaxers are very popular today,
mainly because it leads people to believe that the product is not caustic.
This is far from the truth. The combination of calcium hydroxide and guanidine
carbonate are combined to form guanidine hydroxide, which could just as
easily clean a sink. Repeated use of such products can cause some degree
of hair loss, and if scarring occurs while using these chemicals, the hair
loss can be permanent in that area of the scalp. One must ask themselves
is it wise to place such caustic chemicals in the hair on a regular basis
for the sake of desired appearance? The question must be answered by each
individual, however the facts should be known.
There is little that can be done to alleviate
this syndrome without changing the typical hairstyles of African Americans.
There is a catch-22 concerning relaxing Black hair, since combing natural
Black hair causes so much stress and breakage of hair, while chemicals
cause so much harm to the hair and scalp as well. There are a few hair-relaxing
products on the market that use chemicals and are somewhat less harsh than
sodium hydroxide (lye) or its popular equivalent in “no-lye” relaxers:
calcium hydroxide (quicklime) mixed with guanidine carbonate. One such
product is called Natural-Laxer® and Sahara Clay® by Baka ProductsTM
that has been on the market since 1990. This product is all natural and
because it does not contain many of the harsh chemicals of commercial relaxers
and actually contains only a finely ground plant called Daphne Gnidium
and clay from Africa it is figured to be relatively safe. Of course this
product does not straighten hair in most instances the same way as commercial
relaxers, however it does tend to make Black hair more manageable. There
is yet another product on the market that is reported to be 92-96% natural
which is called Naturalaxer Kit In A Jar™ that does not require the applicant
to comb through the hair during the application, which results in a lot
less damage.
Of course the bottom line is once again,
if you can leave your hair in its natural state then you will experience
less stress and damage to the hair and thus prevent at least one cause
of hair loss. There is a growing segment of the Black population that is
becoming comfortable with wearing their hair in natural styles. One such
style is dreadlocks. There are many rumors and myths concerning dreadlocks,
as there is little proper information available concerning this style,
and as with anything that is misunderstood many myths arise around it.
Dreadlocks can and must be washed; otherwise they will smell badly like
any other dirty hair. The best process to use to wash dreadlocks is to
use a residue-free shampoo. Most commercially made shampoos leave residue
and can cause hair not to lock, lending fuel to the rumor that hair had
to be dirty to form dreadlocks. Clean hair actually locks much better than
dirty hair, as dirt is a residue in itself that will inhibit hair from
locking. For best results one should use a fragrance free, conditioner
free shampoo. Dreadlocks do not react well to oily and greasy substances,
yet there are many good substances that are on the market today that will
assist you in forming dreadlocks.
Dreadlocks are formed through a process,
not simply by not combing or brushing the hair. Generally, one should start
with hair about two inches in length, and the hair should be separated
into even squares of hair and twisted gently together using a bonding or
gel substance. Many use natural beeswax containing no petroleum, while
others use loc and twist gels specifically formulated for locks. Once the
hair is separated and twisted into small locks, it is important that they
are left alone and allowed to bond naturally. The length of time it will
take to lock will depend on the coarseness of your hair, but one can normally
expect to wait several months before locks begin to form. While the hair
is locking, it will need to be washed. Here is where washing should be
extended for a while if possible, so that the hair can be allowed to lock
for two weeks to about a month without manipulation. When you do wash your
hair, use a stocking cap or “do-rag”, and low-pressure water to make sure
that the newly forming locks do not come loose. It will be necessary
to rinse for a much longer time than you normally do, because of the lower
pressure of the water and the lack of direct manipulation of your hair
with your hands. The water is good for your hair and locking process, so
this is not a problem. It is also imperative as indicated before that you
use a shampoo that does not contain a conditioner and leaves as little
residue as possible. A little research on your part will be necessary here;
your health food store should contain a variety of natural shampoos. Have
a skilled professional or a friend re-twist the hair gently, reapplying
the twist gel or beeswax that you used previously. Repeat this process
every two weeks to a month, the longer you are able to wait the better,
and within a few months your hair will begin to lock. Again, if you have
a fine grade of hair rather than a kinky grade of hair, a beautician skilled
at forming locks (“locktitian”) or a friend who is very familiar with the
hairstyle should be consulted. Even though dreadlocks are mainly a hairstyle
for Blacks, there are other races that have people that enjoy the hairstyle.
In general, it tends to be a style of hair that in the long run will give
the hair and scalp needed rest from the rigors of chemical and heat treatments
and rigorous combing and brushing, and therefore can contribute to longer
life for your hair.
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